Renting your wardrobe, a sustainable solution for the fashion obsessed

I recently had the pleasure of sitting down and chatting with Haven Hathaway from Tulerie about the benefits of renting versus buying new, and how I got into the sustainable world. I love having these chats because it’s a nice way to get the conversations flowing, beyond my inner circle, about the importance of our impact and these discussions also act as a reminder for myself to be conscious of my footprint.

Q: How and why did you start your brand, On Duty Citizen?

A: After our first Model Mafia group meetup, I thought it would be cool to have a website where everyone could access sustainable and ethical brands and learn about what made them better than a fast-fashion alternative. I began looking for courses online about sustainability. I found theFactory45 course that helps entrepreneurs learn how to start their fashion brand as sustainably as possible, and from this course, On Duty Citizenwas born. Initially, our name was Off Duty Model, On Duty Citizen (ODM/ODC), but from the inspiration of a great friend and mentor, we simplified it to On Duty Citizen so that no matter what industry you were in, you could feel a part of the environmentalist movement.

Q: What are the goals and plans for the website?

A: With anything I do in life, modeling, or my work with ODC, I never want to feel like I’ve “made it.” For instance, during COVID, I returned to school to chip away at my degree and learn more about sustainability. I believe there’s so much beauty in the journey; a lot can be discovered when you continually learn more about your craft.

That said, I’d love to continue learning more about environmentalism and sustainability and be more consistent with updating the website regularly. When I feel informed, I feel more motivated to spread awareness about the harms of climate change and share bits of optimism and joy. Modeling is my primary source of income, so it is easy to put ODC on the back burner, but I learn so much when I study more about the links between the fashion industry and our climate crises, which helps me be in a position to potentially change the industry from within. These two sides of Britt, the model and the sustainable activist are incredibly complementary to each other.

Q: What about Tulerie’s mission aligns with your sustainable practices?

A: Tulerie closes the loop on waste and gives life to products that may otherwise end up in landfills. I think renting is an incredibly innovative way to “shop” your community member’s closets, revolutionizing the entire fashion industry. Many people will buy a dress for an event and feel like they can never wear it again. While I try and shift that narrative by continually posting about how “sexy” it is to re-wear your clothes, I also think renting provides a solution to this dilemma. You can profit off your items by renting items out as well as rotating cool pieces into your rotation.

Q: What was your first experience like using our platform?

A: I was nervous! It was my first time renting, and I was going to the GQ party in LA and wanted to look sexy yet sophisticated. There were so many amazing options, and the whole process was incredibly seamless. I can understand the hesitancy with renting out special pieces, but with time, renting all our clothes will begin to feel incredibly normalized. There’s a lot of joy in knowing my pieces create new memories and stories with others in my community rather than potentially sitting in my closet for months untouched.

Q: What are some tips on how to have high fashion, style, and sustainability coexist in your daily life?

A: I love investing in sustainable basics and making my style unique by renting fun pieces for events and shopping secondhand. My style revolves around sustainable/ethical white and black tees, good denim, fun vintage jackets, and accessories. Timelessness is key, and I try and stay away from trends that will go out of style. If I like something trendy, I’ll wait a few months to a year to see if I still love it and then try to find a secondhand option instead of purchasing something new.

Q: As a model whose presence is important on social media, how have you seen social media play a part in the negative or positive impact of sustainability awareness?

A: Social media is a blessing and a curse in that you can use it as a medium to inspire those around you to adopt better habits and be conscious of their footprint. However, the pressure to stay relevant and post in new outfits all the time, as well as traveling all over the world and posting your best moments, can feel overwhelming. I try and find balance. When you follow @brittbergmeister, I want you to feel like you’re seeing all sides of Britt.

Q: How have you seen or experienced sustainability and mental health impact each other?

A: Sometimes, in the climate world, forgetting your reusable coffee mug can send you into a spiral of anxiety. On the other hand, sometimes your actions of bringing that mug can feel so small that it doesn’t feel worth the effort. Climate anxiety is a real feeling that can leave you feeling paralyzed in fear. My friend Anne Therese Gennari, a climate optimist, hosts talks on optimism within the climate space and shares the importance of taking small individual steps that will hopefully lead to a huge wave of action. While we have to hold big corporations and government officials with a lot of power accountable by protesting or voting, there is also a lot to be hopeful for. If you find yourself in a wave of anxiety, take a breath and have a moment of pause. We can’t be perfect 100% of the time, which is okay. 

Q: How does sustainability affect your lifestyle and work as a model?

A: Although I wish I could work solely for sustainable brands, I hope that by working with less sustainable brands, I can inspire them to change. I don’t believe in shaming others into action, but I think a conversation on set about how passionate I am about sustainability can go a long way. Modeling also gives me a platform with thousands of individuals, and I use this privilege to share things in the sustainable space that mean a lot to me. The sustainable journey is never-ending, and I always try and be transparent about what I’m continuing to learn, when I’ve been wrong, and how we can all improve.

Q: What do you hope the future of fashion looks like?

A: I think digital fashion is an incredibly exciting innovation in the very near future, and I hope we can rely on clean energy in this space before it’s too big an industry to adapt. I’m a big proponent of prevention versus reaction and think that with any new trend or innovation, we should look at how we can execute in the most sustainable, economical, and inclusive way.

Q: What is one thing you would say to those just starting their sustainability journey?

A: Find something in your lane that excites you and become an expert in that field. There is room for everyone in this movement, and every action counts in positively contributing to the climate change movement.

The Inside Scoop on Minimalist

As a model, it’s a privilege to be able to connect with designers, sewers, and all the moving parts that go into making beautiful clothing. Tamara Davydova and I worked together years ago and kept in touch because of our shared love for sustainability. Tamara decided to create her brand Minimalist, and went steps further beyond sustainability to incorporate circularity into her business model. On a recent trip to NYC, I got to catch up with Tamara and hear all about her studies of circular fashion, what she thinks about sustainability and how she plans to evolve Minimalist. Here are some of the things we talked about below.

1) Can you tell us about your own personal journey in the fashion industry and how you ended up having your own brand?

I graduated from the Parsons School of Design with a BFA degree in Fashion Design. Over the course of my 20-year career, I led design teams and worked alongside designers including Michael Kors and Monique Lhuillier. In 2021 I launched my own ready-to-wear brand MINIMALIST -- designed with the principles of circularity.

2) Sustainability is an incredible goal, but circularity goes further. Can you tell us what this distinction means to you and how you strive to achieve circularity with Minimalist?

At MINIMALIST we design for circularity. That means using sustainable, certified materials and creating timeless,  high quality products that will last. With circularity the ultimate goal is for the garments to be fiber-to-fiber recyclable, closing the loop and eliminating landfill waste created by the fashion industry.

3) What are some of the obstacles you’ve come across by owning your own business and how do you overcome them?

I’ve been fortunate to have support and encouragement along the way from industry peers and from family. That said, there have been many challenges and learning curves on this journey. As a creative I wanted to learn more about the business side and took entrepreneurship courses to learn how to launch a startup.

4) What is one of the “dirtiest” parts of the fashion industry and how does Minimalist combat this?

We are focusing on choosing the most sustainable materials that exist today. Fabric dying and trim finishes are big polluters. At MINIMALIST we select certified materials, such as Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX, for fabrics and trims to ensure that we design out waste and pollution from the start.

5) What does transparency mean to you and why do you think this is so important?

At MINIMALIST each product has a list of “ingredients” listed to ensure our customers know what’s in each garment. When I design I carefully select each component and think of it as an “ingredient” in the same way you would want to know what’s in your food. The fewer the ingredients, and the higher quality the ingredients, the better. It’s important to raise customer awareness to be able to distinguish between greenwashing and what’s truly sustainable.

6) What are some tips you have for people looking to implement conscious habits into their daily routine?

Buy less, but better! Check your labels for ingredients and buy truly sustainable products. It can be confusing and there is a lot of greenwashing, but a little research goes a long way.

7) There’s always a bit of a debate about the prices of sustainable fashion. Oftentimes, they’re quite higher than fast-fashion because of the quality of materials, the workers’ wages, and so-forth. Can you talk about the price point for sustainable options and how you see that developing in the future?

Sustainable products can be more expensive, however the consumer's thinking needs to shift to understand that it’s better and ultimately cheaper (because it will last longer) to buy a couple of high quality products, than a bag full of fast fashion. Think farm to table vs junk food. The good news is that consumer demand for sustainable fashion is growing and this is putting pressure to drive a systemic change in the industry towards sustainability.

8) In the climate change movement, who inspires you? Do you have any favorite resources you use to learn more about sustainability?

I met so many inspiring people along the way. There is a company in NYC called Fab Scrap. They tackle textile waste in NYC. We are working with them to ensure that we don’t create textile waste in our R&D process.

9) What are the next steps for Minimalist? How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five years?

We are thrilled to be pioneering the circularity movement in fashion. We are looking into the options of a resale or take back program where our customers can send the garments back to us for resale or recycling once they are done with them. At MINIMALIST our goal is to offer a 360 circular experience for our customers.

Behind the Scenes with LXRandCo

I recently had the pleasure of speaking with a senior buyer at vintage luxury handbag and accessory company, LXRandCo. After working with this brand, I wanted to know more. Being a model I have the great pleasure of seeing the clothes and accessories up close and personal as well as getting to work intimately with employees from different brands. Sometimes, I want to know more, to dig deeper. I wanted to know the ins and outs of the resale market and why it’s a better option for the planet than traditional retail platforms. Check it out and let us know your thoughts.

For 20% off your next vintage purchase, use code BRITTB20 at checkout. You can always message us on social media @ondutycitizen or @brittbergmeister if you want help on choosing the perfect piece that will last a lifetime and never go out of style. The ones you can pass down to your children for years to come.

Enjoy…!

1) Tell us about your journey in the fashion world and how you ended up at LXRandCo.

My personal journey in the fashion world was actually an accident. I started out in teaching, and just happened into my job as a buyer due to my previous experience with luxury vintage during my university career. I was originally a client of LXR, I frequently sold my designer goods to LXRandCo because of the knowledge of the Buying Department and because of the overall ease of the process. Of all vintage luxury brands I have worked with, LXR’s selling process is by far the easiest and quickest. Because of my knowledge of the market, I was approached by another buyer at LXR to consider a career opportunity in fashion and the rest is history.

2) What are some of your personal favorite timeless pieces worth investing in?

I know there are a lot of brand loyalists amongst designer collectors; however, there are a few bags from different designers that no true collector should be without. From Louis Vuitton, everyone should have a Neverfull, it’s practical, stylist and incredibly versatile. Plus, it has been redone in just about every print and collection possible, personally, the newly released Monogram Empreinte Neverfull is to die for. From Dior, a saddle bag (go for a vintage Trotter print – you won’t regret it) and a classic Lady Dior in the medium size are my must picks. Chanel, classic flaps are a collector’s dream. Go for a vintage flap in Caviar leather if you can find it. The chain straps and hardware are gilded with 24K gold, so they stay the most gorgeous golden hue. Lastly, Hermès, everyone loves a Birkin, but I am all about the Evelyne, a gorgeous and versatile messenger, but I’ll be lured into buying just about anything in the most gorgeous blue colour in existence: Bleu Électrique.

3) Do you have any interesting statistics on how many handbags are in people’s closets that they don’t use?

I envision this is close to the amount of clothing that people actually wear in their closet, only about 20%.

4) I love the concept of the Reluxury Restart program! Can you tell our readers a little bit about what this entails?

I love the Reluxury Restart program as well. Essentially, we wanted to make a program where our clients could love their new-to-them handbags in a risk-free environment for up to six months and still be able to get back up to 75% of its value back to them to re-use for their next Reluxury pre-loved score. Once you purchase an item, if you sell it back to LXR within 6-months, and it is in the same condition as when you purchased it, you get back 60% in cash or 75% in LXR credit back. We really wanted our clients to help us contribute to the circular economy and to love Reluxury.

5) Tell us a bit about the secondhand market process. Where the accessories are from and how are you able to verify all handbags and accessories?

There is so much to know about the secondhand market process. LXR works diligently to source from a variety of locations to give our clients a wide variety of products, which are ethically sourced and priced competitively. We buy and consign items directly from our amazing client base, we source from auction houses as well as through a variety of wholesale suppliers.

Every single item has its authenticity verified by multiple people across multiple mediums. For example, items purchased directly through our amazing clients have an initial authenticity evaluation through photos (we ask for every small detail of the bag), from this, we can eliminate about 95% of counterfeit products – counterfeiters simply aren’t as good as they think they are. Then, our items are shipped to our warehouse where they are again authenticated in person, using a variety of techniques and tools. When they are professionally photographed for our website, they undergo a third authenticity check by our production team and by the buying team.

Each member of our buying team has a background in luxury, design or production. Each member trains for 1-2 years with senior members of the buying team to hone their skills in authentication and ensure our clients receive only authentic Reluxury goods.

6) I am always amazed at the quality of the older vintage pieces and how timeless and resilient they are in both design and craftsmanship. Do you notice a difference in quality between older and newer designs?

There is absolutely a different in vintage quality versus newer models. One of the most obvious differences is materials used. For example, Louis Vuitton used to use pure brass for its hardware. It would never flake and could always be polished back to new without replacing the part. Now, Louis Vuitton uses a gold-coloured coating that frequently rubs off within months of wearing. Other differences include the thickness of the canvas, vintage bags had thicker, sturdier canvases, they just didn’t wear the same way that new bags do. A lot of the pieces LXR carries are older than 20 years old and still look new, vintage is the way to go. I recommend only buying newer pieces when 1) it is a limited-edition piece that won’t be re-released, 2) it is a style you are absolutely in love with and there is no vintage comparable or 3) year exclusive colours.

7) We love that LXRandCo is based upon a circular model of giving a new life to products to close the loop on waste. Are there any other ways this company strives to achieve sustainable and/or ethical business practices?

We do our best to ensure all packaging is sustainable. We are actually in the middle of changing all of our shipping and packaging materials to be entirely recyclable and/or compostable. Keep watching LXR for the launch of the new packaging, it’ll be amazing.

Although it is not directly related to sustainability, LXR also strongly believes in inclusivity and representation in the media. We make sure to hire a variety of models so that everyone feels they could be an LXR client and can see themselves with their own pre-loved Reluxury piece.

We also are partnering with a charitable organization that excels in women and vintage pieces, we will announce that partnership soon.

8) What are some tips for extending the longevity of high-quality products?

How you store your items is key. Make sure that items are stuffed completely, but not over-packed to prevent wrinkling and creasing of your items. We also recommend you store your items in the dust bag when not in use; however, never ever leave your items in the box. When you leave items in a box, it creates an air-tight seal and causes the leather and or canvas to dry rapidly, never a good look.

For vachetta pieces, use a light aerosol leather guard. We often recommend apple guard; it helps non-treated leather stay clean and prevents water marks if you are caught in a precarious precipitation situation.

Remember to clean and condition leather items deeply. We recommend you wipe down treated leather (not vachetta) every other day with a damp soft cloth. You should deeply clean and condition your item about once a season.

9) Can you tell us a bit about the secondhand market growth in the past few years and how you see it continuing to flourish?

The secondhand market has exploded in the last few years. We do not have the same aversion to our products as “used” as we saw even two or three years ago. Consumers are constantly educating themselves and understand the value of vintage and pre-loved.

They also are becoming more understanding and knowledgeable with regards to issues we all face, like global warming and pollution. Everyone is starting to understand that we all need to do our part to make a chance, and buying pre-loved is just one of the small ways we can continue to make an impact.

Fashion has always been circular; we see styles and trends reemerging that we have already seen in previous decades. Some companies try to capitalize on trends and introduce new versions of luxury vintage pieces, but here at LXR, we love the original trend-setter, and we want to share that love with our clients.

10) What are the next steps for LXRandCo? How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five years?     

LXRandCo is an ever-changing and always evolving company. Lately, we have shifted our direction and have become more user-friendly for our online shoppers and have re-designed our website to facilitate ease and style. We have a few more major projects for 2021, all surrounding making Reluxury products more accessible to everyone, and for all our clients to have a really personal experience with LXR.

 In the next five years, LXR is going to be the go-to for Reluxury. What sets us apart from our competitors, and the reason we will continue to be successful is that we really listen to our customers desires and make them a reality.

Getting to Know Kahindo

When a former high school friend of mine reached out to introduce me to a brand she works with, I jumped at the opportunity to get to know Kahindo, founder of her namesake brand, Kahindo. With beautiful bold prints inspired by her upbringing in Africa , Kahindo strives to bring an ethical source of income to the women in the communities who help make her clothes. It was an absolute pleasure to get to know the founder and her journey into conception of this successful brand. We talk about the importance of ethical fashion, as well as how she believes the sustainable movement (and the fashion industry as a whole) can be more inclusive. Check out our interview below!

All of our ODC community can get 20% off the SS20 collection by plugging in the code: ODC20OFF

1) Tell us a bit about your journey in the making of your brand, Kahindo. 

I started my brand in 2009 in Chicago as a way to express my Congolese heritage and African upbringing. I wanted to create pieces that I could easily wear to work and that could transition to night and featured traditional African prints. I was accepted into the Chicago Fashion Incubator at Macy’s on State Street where I learned the business side of fashion. In 2016 I rebranded with a name change from Modahnik to Kahindo and moved to New York. As a luxury sustainable womenswear fashion brand that is ethically sourced and produced in Africa using fair trade practices, our mission is to empower women in marginalized communities by closing the gender gap, paying fair living wages and creating sustainable jobs. We are now carried at Rent the Runway and Industrie Africa.

2) Tell us a bit about your heritage and how that influences your beautiful designs.

I was born in Uganda to Congolese parents, schooled in Kenya and lived in Ethiopia and Niger before moving to the States to attend College. My Pan-African upbringing has given me a love and appreciation of different African cultures that I constantly pull inspiration from. I am especially proud of my Congolese heritage which I often reference in my designs. We have such a rich culture from music, to dance, to the green landscape of my hometown of Goma to fashion. Les Sapeurs is a movement that beautifully encompasses this. I grew up going to buy African print in the market in Goma and then to the local tailor who would make a custom fit outfit for me for a special occasion, and I have always wanted to share this experience with the world.

3) What is the production process like from when you think of what to make to how it is finally manufactured? 

Everything always starts with color, that is the essence of KAHINDO. I look at trend reports to get an idea of what colors will be in the next season. The next step is coming up with the print. We started developing prints in house, which is very exciting, as they are always unique to the brand. We love to collaborate with different artists to interpret their work into textiles. Once the fabric is selected we come up with the styles which always include our staples and a couple of new looks that our customer craves. Samples are made to perfect the fit, then manufacturing begins. For Spring Summer 2020, we sourced hand dyed fabric that was made in Kenya, and worked with female artisans in DR Congo who sewed the garments to perfection.

4) What does ‘sustainability’ mean to you and your brand and how do you strive for environmental and ethical justice within the fashion industry?

We address 3 of the United Nations Sustainable development goals, which are Gender Equity, Fair Trade and Poverty Eradication. This means focusing on the human factor. That is, we want to ensure fashion is ethical, that workers are treated fairly, that they get paid a fair living wage and work in safe working conditions. We believe that providing sustainable jobs is the key to ending poverty and that when you empower a woman, you empower a whole community. We want to make a well-made product in Africa that has a social impact. Consumers care how and where their clothes are made and we hope to deliver on that.

5) I love your latest collection, dropped this past January. Such beautiful colors! Tell us about your RefuSHE campaign and how that came about. 

I have been involved with RefuShe since 2014 when I participated in their “Project Runway” inspired fashion challenge, and won it that year. Their mission of empowering refugee girls is something that is close to my heart. I always wanted to be involved more, so when the opportunity came to collaborate with the women who work in the Artisan Collective, I had to jump on it. They hand dyed the fabric that was used in my SS20 collection, while earning some income which gives them financial freedom.

6) What was your experience on Project Runway like and what were some of the things you learned that stuck with you to this day?

Being selected to participate in Project Runway Season 12 was a dream come true, especially because I was picked from hundreds of designers.  The show gave me a huge opportunity to showcase my talent to millions of viewers across the U.S. I am proud that I was able to share my culture and heritage with such a large audience.

7) What message do you have for your followers and community about your own experiences as a Black-owned business and how you have remained so persistent in an industry that has been (and still can be) resistant to equality and change from within.  

The fashion industry has a lack of diversity, not only with models, but designers and press. Because of this I have had to work 10 times as hard as another designer to get the press coverage I deserve, or to get carried by retailers. I have also been passed over for so many opportunities because of the color of my skin. This has definitely slowed the growth of my brand, in addition to lack of access to capital and a network. However, I have been resilient and tenacious and truly believe that my brand is at the cusp of success.

8) How do you feel we can best make sustainability more inclusive?  

I feel large and small retailers need to start carrying more sustainable brands and more brands that are designed by black women. The 15% pledge is a great movement that is challenging retailers to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to black founded companies, which is a great start.

9) What goals do you have, current or in the future, in achieving more sustainable practices as a business? 

We started with a focus on ethical production, which sometimes is overlooked when you talk about sustainability, but is just as important if not more, because in effect it is how we treat garment workers. In the future we will source more sustainable fabrics such as organic cotton, hemp and linen and incorporate recycled materials in our packaging.

10) What has been one of your biggest achievements to date? 

Being able to provide sustainable job opportunities to female artisans in my home town of Goma, DRC is one of my biggest achievements. I was able to give over 150 days of work to the women, because of Rent the Runway, where KAHINDO is currently stocked at. 

Follow Kahindo along:

Web, Instagram

All You Need to Know About Proclaim!

I recently came across Proclaim; a women’s line of intimates that promotes inclusivity, longevity and comfort. As something that we all need to wear, I appreciated their mindfulness with encompassing size, style, and color. From why they choose to produce locally in L.A. to some of their favorite eco-friendly materials they incorporate in production design, check out our latest interview with Shobha Philips, founder of Proclaim… Enjoy!

1) Tell us about the journey from conception to fruition for Proclaim.

I started Proclaim because I was tired of not being able to find a nude bra that matched my brown skin as an Indian woman.  For years, the fashion industry has chosen to ignore me and millions of women that don’t have the skin color that is ubiquitously known as nude.  It was something I was aware of for as long as I can remember. I knew I wanted to be a part of the movement to revolutionize nude, but if I was going to do this, I wanted to do it right.  Beyond inclusivity, there are so many issues in the fashion industry that are long overdue for change, specifically it’s negative effects on people and the environment.  Proclaim is ethically made, inclusively designed intimates for women of all shapes, sizes and skin tones.  Our pieces are made from eco-friendly fabrics and made locally here in Los Angeles.

2) We love that Proclaim is inclusive in size, and color. How did this become a part of the business model?  

As someone who never felt they were included in the beauty narrative in fashion, being inclusive was particularly important to me from day one.  Representation of women of all shapes, sizes and skin tones has been lacking, especially in intimates. All our pieces are created in inclusive nude tones and we have been working on expanding our size options with each collection.  Our latest collection is available in sizes S-3X.

3) What are the main differences between post-consumer recycled bottles and Tencel fabrics and how does Proclaim incorporate them both into the designs?

All our fabrics are selected with environmental impact in mind.  Recycled polyester is made from BPA-free recycled plastic bottles.  We love recycled polyester because is it reduces reliance on virgin petroleum as a raw material and diverts plastic from landfills and oceans.  Tencel, on the other hand is made from eucalyptus bark and made in a nearly closed loop process where 99% of the solvent is recovered, purified and reused.   I love exploring new eco-friendly fabrics and hope to continue to work with different fibers as we grow.

4) What criteria does Proclaim company have for choosing factories to work with?

As an LA based brand, we work with factories that are based in LA to reduce our carbon footprint and contribute to the economy where we live.  The factories pay fair wages in the form of salaries instead of per/piece which is a practice that can lead to underpayment of workers and a focus on quantity rather than quality.    All our manufacturing partners meet state, local and federal workplace requirements for a safe workplace as well.

5) What can we do as consumers to prolong the life of our undergarments and how often should we purchasing new bras and underwear? 

Handwashing instead of machine washing will lead to a longer life for any garment, but especially your delicate intimates. I know it’s not always convenient, but it makes a big difference. I also recommend hang drying to prolong the life instead of throwing them in the dryer.  As far as when to purchase new intimates, it depends on how often you are wearing your bra or underwear.  But in general, I try to pay attention to the comfort and fit of the bra.  Your bra should be supportive and comfortable.  If there is significant decline from wearing and washing over time, it might be time to replace.

6) Where should our used garments go once we’re finished with them?

I like to swap or give clothes to friends to ensure a longer life cycle for the garment.  Donating clothes is another option to places like Goodwill or a homeless shelter.  Many cities also have textile recycling programs that turn unusable garments into insulation and other industrial uses.

7) In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is Proclaim doing to combat this? 

The sheer volume of garments being produced is, in my opinion, the most unsustainable part of fashion.  Churning out cheaply made clothes that are made to wear one or two times is simply not sustainable for the planet. Proclaim produces thoughtfully designed pieces in small batch production that is made for many wears in timeless, minimalist styles.

8) How has the company’s journey been through these difficult times of COVID-19? What can we, your community do to help?

We turned to making masks a few weeks ago in an effort to allow our production partners to keep working in a newly configured safe working environment and to donate masks to the Downtown Women’s Center in LA through our buy-one-donate-one program.

9. How do you think the fashion industry will change after this pandemic and what are you trying to do to cope with these changes?

I hope companies will use this time to rethink their business models and invest in a future that algins with the fragile ecosystem we live in.

10) What are the next steps for Proclaim?  How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five years?     

There are so many wardrobe staples that women need in inclusive nude tones and inclusive sizes. I’d like to continue to create these pieces within the sustainable business model we’ve built over the last 3 years.

Getting to Know Vitamin A Swim

I came across Vitamin A swim when I was browsing for the perfect non-fussy bikini that was simple, stylish, but most importantly, sustainable.

I kept hearing about Vitamin A, a company that similarly believes sustainable can be sexy. They too, felt strongly that bathing suits should be effortless and that they shouldn’t harm the environment. It seems crazy to wear a bathing suit in the ocean that would add to the destruction of it, so Vitamin A ensures the suits they create leave a positive impact on this Earth. They’ve become a favorite swimwear brand of mine that openly share their sustainable practices with all of their customers and followers, not to mention the swimsuits fit beautifully. I had the pleasure of chatting with Enya, a member of the Vitamin A tribe, on all the ins and outs of this company so you too can see what goes into making this sexy, sustainable swimwear! Enjoy!

1. How do you think you tapped into markets beyond the sustainable world? How do you maintain the “cool” factor while being eco-friendly?  

We believe that sustainability and style really go hand in hand! Our eco-conscious production practices are part of what make Vitamin A sexy and cool. This is the essence of the Vitamin A brand, and something that doesn’t change for us. 

 We were one of the first brands nearly 20 years ago, to come up with a new concept of sexy and bring about a new direction for color palettes. Prior to Vitamin A, we were only seeing bright colors - fuchsia, purple, turquoise, jade, and black - in the swim industry. Neutral palettes didn’t exist yet, so Vitamin A was one of the first to really introduce a softer and more simple aesthetic.  So later, when we integrated the sustainability aspect into Vitamin A, it was another platform, but the aesthetic was already there - it became another point of association for our customers and others in the swim industry! 

2. What criteria does the company have for choosing factories to work with?

All Vitamin A bikinis and bodysuits are produced locally in California, which dramatically reduces our emissions for transporting and delivering raw materials! And by keeping the vast majority of our work local, we’re able to closely monitor any of the processes we can’t do ourselves to ensure our sustainable standards are being met. We're able to take the time to get to know the people who make our goods, and we’re proud knowing that our manufacturing team maintains a high standard of ethics and environmental responsibility.

For some of our products that cannot be made here in California, we partner globally with fair trade artisans to produce our materials ethically, meaning Vitamin A production outside of the US is providing women with fair-wage jobs in safe working conditions! We also visit their factories and remain in constant contact with our partners to ensure that they are meeting our same high standards.

3. What can we do as consumers to prolong the life of our swimwear and is Vitamin A working on a way to close the loop on waste after use?

Our first fabric was actually created out of industry waste! Vitamin A’s EcoLux fabrication was the first in our industry and the model for all of our sustainable fabrics. So we‘re constantly working to close the loop on waste – this means keeping that waste out of landfills and recycling it within the industry, innovating with plant-based fabrics, and also looking for ways to recycle worn garments (we’re not quite there yet, but trust us, we’re working on it!).

Prolonging swimwear:

Wear More, Wash Less
When cared for properly, Vitamin A swimwear will last for years. We recommend a gentle, low-impact approach. Unfortunately, when you wash anything made from synthetics (even if its recycled) it sheds microfibers that can be pollutants if they wind up in the ocean. Here are some environmentally-conscious tips on how to care for your swimwear:

Swim Cycle
Rinse in cold water to shed fewer microfibers. We love hand washing with Bikinis Over Everything, an eco-friendly bikini cleanser. 

Use an all-natural biodegradable soap, such as Dr. Bronners, to spot-clean only necessary areas (it’s much better for your bikini and the environment than chemical-packed detergents or bleach).

Slip your bikini into an eco-friendly bag (like GUPPYFRIEND) designed to keep any loose microfibers from entering the water in your washing machine. It keeps our ocean water clean and will help your suit receive more delicate care.

Make sure to cold rinse your swimsuit after each wear, even if you don’t go in the water.

Stay Dry
Skip the dryer (and the green house gas emissions) and hang dry your bikinis. Avoid direct sunlight and lay your suits flat in a cool, dry place for a drying method that requires zero energy. 

Take Turns
We know you have a favorite bikini, but the key to making it last longer is to wait until it’s completely dry to wear it again. If you’re planning to spend a few days in a row dressed in a bikini (lucky!) plan on bringing a couple different suits to wear.

4. In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is Vitamin A doing to combat this? What about ethically?

The least sustainable part of the fashion industry is the pure fact that it’s based on petroleum products, which are materials derived from fossil fuels. At Vitamin A, we’re working on utilizing plant-based swim fibers to create our designs, while also shifting all of our beachwear to biodegradable products, recycled cotton, organic cotton, tinsel, linen, and silks.

5. For someone new to the sustainable world, what are some key small steps they can look out for when shopping to ensure they’re investing in a good company?

Consumers should look out for certain environmental endorsements, partnerships, or support of certifiable organizations that will indicate if any certain company is dedicated to eco-causes. For example, Vitamin A is a member of 1% - meaning we pledge to donate one percent of our annual sales to environmental non-profits. 

 We should also be sure to read our labels! Keep an eye out for where products are being made and what kind of materials are being used. Swimwear that’s made domestically will have less of a carbon footprint.

6. What are the next steps for Vitamin A?  How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five to ten years?    

We recently launched our newest BioRib fabric this season, which is made from organic plant-based fibers – meaning there’s zero impact on the food chain, 20% less CO2 emissions, and lower water consumption! We’re currently working on expanding on this concept with more biodegradable fabrics and continuing to innovate with new sustainable options. We’re also excited to be launching exclusive product collaborations with some of favorite retailers with the concept of “sustainability is sexy", to further share our mission with other brands in the industry! 

Getting To Know Amour Vert

As a model, I get to work with so many different types of companies. That’s what I love about my job, I’m a chameleon and I get to change for every brand to represent their image the best I can.
However, this is what opened my eyes to the sometimes wasteful nature of our industry.

A lot of the times, I can feel firsthand the difference between a product that was made with love and one that was made to disintegrate to potentially fuel the overconsumption nature of our economy. I am however a firm believer in working with those who we wish to inspire. It’s not about working against the companies that “aren’t doing it right” but by inspiring them to change and be better! And sometimes, I’m lucky enough to work with companies that I TRULY believe in, like Amour Vert. It was an absolute dream to shoot with a company that is so in alignment with ODC and our values. Scroll down for my interview with Emory Cooley from Amour Vert and see for yourself why the Model Activist group is obsessed with this company!

1. Tell me a bit about how you got connected with Amour Vert. What’s it like working for them? 

I studied Fashion and Textile Management in school and took a course on sustainability. After taking the course, I was shocked at the corruption within the industry. Upon graduation, I knew I wanted to work for a brand with a larger vision at hand, and I found Amour Vert. I moved from North Carolina almost 2 years ago to join Amour Vert in their quest to change fashion. 

It’s been an amazing experience working at Amour Vert. My co-workers have become close friends and the office has amazing energy. Teams collaborate frequently and ideas are shared and formed throughout the office and between teams. We have a company-wide meeting every Monday and every Friday there is a family-style lunch. When you work for Amour Vert, you’re a part of a family. 

2. What are some of the core values to Amour Vert and how does the company ensure they’re sticking to them?

Our core values are to be sustainable in everything we do. From the factory to the fibers, we are sustainable. We stick to this by having transparency and close relationships with our mills and factories. 

3. I love the fact that the company partners with artists on limited-edition prints. I especially love the print you just did with Buckley for Women’s Day! Tell me a bit about this process and some of the collaborations the company has done in the past and what you have coming up in the future.

We work with value-aligned women to develop prints. The collaborative process is between our design team and the artist. The prints are developed based on the season, designs and story we have planned for the collection they are designing into. 

We have had so many collaborations it’s difficult to speak to all of them, but most recently in March, we partnered with Kate Miller from Elworth Studio. She developed our Mojave Floral print which we love! We will definitely continue this program in the future, while also developing in-house prints. 

4. Tell me a bit about the fabrics Amour Vert uses. They’re so incredibly soft it’s hard to believe they’re sustainable!

We partner to use fiber blends to create new exclusive fabrics that are fashionable, durable and of course, sustainable. We are excited for our exclusive Tencel and Modal blends for the spring season. Tencel comes from eucalyptus trees and Modal comes from beechwood trees and both are created in a closed loop process using sustainable yarns and are biodegradable. We have brand new fabrics from each of these fibers to look forward to this spring.

5. I love the fact that 97% of the clothing is made near the San Francisco office. What’s the importance on producing locally and what are some of the advantages of being so close to the factories? 

Producing locally allows in-person conversations, which we believe are crucial and allow for creative minds to collaborate together. It also allows us the opportunity to touch, feel and see the softness and drape of the fabrics.

6. I also love that you showcase the women in your community who live and breathe the Amour Vert ethos. Tell me about some of these women and why you’ve chosen to highlight them in some of your campaigns

In January we launched the “It’s Not About Us” campaign, it’s a campaign that has no end date and will continuously highlight women who live the ethos of Amour Vert. We believe models are more than a pretty face, and we want to give them a platform to tell their story. 

7. What are the criteria for choosing like-minded companies like Agolde denim, Vitamin A swim, Veja shoes, etc. to sell on the site?

We partner with companies that share the same sustainable and ethical standards. That means these companies are aligned in their values. We work hard so that our customer can shop online and be effortlessly sustainable. 

8. In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What are you doing to combat this?

There are so many aspects of the fashion industry that are unsustainable, but something that we like to focus on shifting is fabric production. We work with only 100% Certified Organic Cotton (only 1% of the world’s cotton is grown organically), and natural fibers that are produced in a closed loop process, such as our signature Modal, and Tencel. 

These fabrics are not only better for the environment and the farmers, but also for every person working with them along the supply chain, and eventually the customer who purchases and wears the piece. In terms of ethics, we ensure that the factories that we work with respect to their workers by providing safe and clean work environments, a living wage, reasonable hours and breaks. This shouldn’t be unique in the fashion industry, but sadly it is. 

9. For someone new to the sustainable world, what are some key small steps they can look out for when shopping to ensure they’re investing in a good company?

We would encourage consumers to ask for transparency. Ask if the factories are sustainable, understand the fiber content. Customers should educate themselves so they can ask companies the harder questions that often times no one is asking. 

10. What are the next steps for Amour Vert? How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five to ten years?

To continue to grow, open stores and spread awareness about the importance of sustainable fashion, etc. 

Getting to Know Kata Banko Couture

Earlier in 2018 I had the pleasure of working with a friend of a friend who wanted to style out an ethical themed wedding shoot. I had just been proposed to, so the timing couldn’t have been better! A shoot that would be organized all around sustainability and ethical style from the food we ate to the location of venue and jewelry, everything was thought out to show brides an idea of how to do their wedding with a little more thought about the environment.

Weddings are one of the most special times of anyones lives but they can be incredibly wasteful. Years going into planning for that one special day that’s over before you know it and sometimes you’re left with a ton of plastic waste, uneaten food, a dress made of plastic you’ll only wear once or jewels that weren't exactly sourced with the environment in mind.

From this shoot, I was introduced to Kata Banko Couture, an eco friendly wedding accessories line that graciously lent us pieces to style our shoot from incredibly unique head pieces to statement necklaces and chokers. I decided to keep in touch and find out a little bit more about this company. Check out what Colleen, founder of the company has to say in regards to how they make their pieces, how they stay ethical, and plans for the company as they grow…!

1) Tell me a bit about how Kata Banko Couture came about? Where did everyone in the company come from and how did you all transition into the sustainable/ethical world?

Kata Banko Couture came about in 2002. The name belongs to my Grandmother, Kata. I started my business in evening and RTW couture, designing gowns for galas and such. During that time I was raising two young boys as a single mother and took a break from designing to go into Nursing. In 2009 a friend of mine opened a bridal salon and asked me to help her out with alterations and custom design. We started seeing a great need for bridal accessories, especially custom, so I gave it a go and created a bridal accessory line. After the first couple of years in business I got to see how un- sustainable the industry really was, and not to mention unethical.  So once again, I changed it up, totally educated myself and launched a new line that fit my vision for the world rather than the industry. I found a special little group of “sustainable minded” suppliers as well as ethically minded people. I have always used sustainable fabrics, but I needed to do more.  We use recycled metals, no kill dead stock leathers, peace silks and recycled and dead stock fabrics occasionally. We are working to also make our products wearable beyond bridal and offering more everyday wear. Currently I have my magic maker of beautiful things, Breanna, myself, and we are introducing a new team member co designer this year, Lexi. And I have to say, I have one of the best, if not the best, PR Company, Perry Rose Media, specifically Alex, she is the force behind alot of what goes on in the brand, and also she's my girl! 

2) Sustainability in bridal wear is definitely a newer topic, however, brides are starting to realize that a lot of waste goes into one day and feel it’s important to make a positive change. Why did you guys decide to tap into the bridal market specifically? 

Agreed! The bridal market fell into my lap quite honestly! I am planning to keep a curated bridal collection, but we are moving into what feels right to us, which is lifestyle. I want our brides to be able to continue wearing our products beyond that day. No waste.

3) How is each Kata Banko product created from conception to production?  

It all starts with some good music and good vibes and a sketch. From there it goes through several different design phases until it feels right. Everything is hand crafted, start to finish using artisan techniques. 

4) What materials are you using for your jewelry and how do you choose each one?

We use Swarovski vintage and current pearls and stones, hand crushed quartz crystals ( the first to apply this technique in the industry) and semi precious stones, hand crafted bases and recycled hand plated metals and findings. I dont change these staple components often, I really want to keep it cohesive and sustainable by avoiding waste.

5) In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is Kata Banko Couture doing to combat this?

Oh boy, where to start! I could write a novel! Aside from major waste and pollution, I would say the chemically laced unnatural fabrics. Also the need to keep creating collections, so much waste there! If it’s good, it will keep selling. As you can see we really haven't changed our components in years, this cuts down on waste and it is a sustainable way to create heirloom signature items. We are definitely hyper aware of what's going on in the industry and always try to elevate awareness by talking about honestly. The brand will always continue to be as sustainable as we can and will always no matter what be ethical. You will alot more conversation and education coming out of Kata Banko Couture this year, in fashion and in bridal. We've got some magic up our sleeves.

What about ethically?

That is a subject that needs to be talked about more! So many unethical practices in the industry and bridal is off the charts with unethical practices. People need to be a focus in this, it is very ugly! I work with Fair Trade Certified CO-OPS only when I’m producing garments. Being in the fashion industry for 20+ years, in many roles, I’ve seen the backside of this industry and while there are some great brands out there who are ethical and sustainable, there are too many who are not and its all about the money no matter what the cost. It’s very unsettling. I am very lucky to have a small team and partnering with Fair Trade production for gowns and garments is a stellar thing! Basically, I could tell you who produced your gown or your accessory, their life, interests and how long we've been connected. It’s not all about how much you can make, it’s about loving it and treating it with heart, we are a family, we value what we do with each other, we all have real life conversations, its very personal. There's value in that, it’s called connection. Unethical companies don't care about any of that.

6) What are some of your own personal sustainable habits you live by? Do you have any goals for 2019 to live a little cleaner?

I don’t buy a lot of stuff! Especially plastics and clothing. I still am wearing clothes Ive had for 20 years. We live in a buy more, have more stuff mentality, it’s not working for our planet! 

7) What’s the best way you ensure your workers are treated well?

We are a family! What is mine, is theirs, always. When we are working, it’s a good time, kind of like hanging out with your bffs eating, laughing , listening to some good music and getting our work done. I am very fortunate to have amazing people in my life and in my business. We keep it “light”, and any conversation is always welcome, we share in the process, my main photographers are my sons, we pull friends into shoots, even sometimes one of us, it’s gotta be fun. When it’s not working as a whole, it doesn't work,  to think, at one time it was me doing everything myself. I love how this has grown, so very organically.

8) What are the next steps for Kata Banko Couture? How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five to ten years?

Well, there's a lot going on behind scenes, so we will see:)

I had the pleasure of designing the first new collection of bridal wear for Celia Grace last year, which was a dream, being that Celia Grace is Fair Trade, Sustainable and Ethical. So we definitely has some exciting stuff happening behind the scenes with that. For Kata Banko, we are doing us! 100%! It’s all about the lifestyle, we have stayed in the “lines” and it hasn't really fed our souls, so look out for a fresh, real approach. So excited about it!

In 5 to 10 years, we will be not only a full on lifestyle brand, we will be a movement!

9) What’s something different (or special) about Kata Banko Couture from other companies you’ve worked at in the past?

It’s real life, no gimmicks and really for the future. We have always been about, ethical and sustainable practices and what makes us special is that we continue to talk about it, be about it and bring about change in the industry. There is no planet B , we all have a responsibility to care for the earth and each other.

10) For someone new to the sustainable world, what are some key small steps they can look out for when shopping to ensure they’re investing in a good company?

Do your research! How is that company impacting the earth and the people producing it. Reach out and ask questions, if the company is legit, they will be happy to talk to you about their products. Email me anytime! I’d love to educate you on what I stand for in my business!

Getting to Know Tribe of Lambs

When a makeup artist friend of mine came to me with a project he was helping produce, I was immediately intrigued. Tribe of Lambs is a project founded by a Canadian who was passionate about creating jewelry and giving back to different communities in India, all whilst bringing awareness to the HIV+ epidemic especially for children. The specific project my friend was asking about was for their upcoming shoot and I was more than honored to be a part of it. So much of my job requires me to shoot for brands I don’t always have the same beliefs in. This was something I was proud to promote, support, and share with all of my community. Meet Bobbi, Co-founder of Tribe of Lambs….

Founder Bobbi Paidel and Director of Marketing Philip Haley

1) Tell me a bit about how Tribe of Lambs came about? Where did everyone in the company come from and how did you all transition into the sustainable/ethical world? 

Tribe of Lambs started over 4 years ago as a crowdfunding project to raise money for two orphanages in the Himalayas of India. I was volunteering there and felt a real pull to do something more meaningful in life. Phil came to India when the campaign was finished and helped me complete the donations. Initially we were selling a variety of different artisan made accessories and supporting a variety of youth based causes but we’ve since streamlined our mission and our products. Nearly 3 years back we became aware of the issues HIV+ children face and we felt very strongly that this was something we needed to put all our efforts into. The initial campaign was so well received we came home and registered as a nonprofit, along side our 3rd friend who used to be quite involved. As the team is now just Phil & I, we’ve had to boot strap it, working full time jobs and growing the organization on the side. My background is Fashion and Phil’s is marketing, so we have complimentary skills, which can both easily transition into this type of social venture. 

2) I couldn’t believe reading about the treatment of HIV positive children in India… It’s atrocious and stunning to read they’re often segregated or left to fend for themselves. Tell us about some of the NGO’s you’ve been working with that are helping to make a difference. How did you choose who to partner with? 

We currently have one partner organization – Rays Aasha Ki Ek Kiran which translates to One Ray of Hope. It is a small privately run organization, which works solely for the lives and rights of HIV+ children in and around Rajasthan. It is absolutely incredible to see how the life of a child can be completely transformed when provided a loving home, a sense of family, proper nutrition and health care and quality education. Beyond that, the children we work with are constantly reminded that their lives matter, that they can lead by example, that fear and stigma do not have to be the societal norm when it comes to a person living with the HIV virus. Rays currently house 38 boys, 16 girls & employs 8 HIV+ widows to work as caretakers in the home.  We’ve met and worked with a handful of organizations over the years and in India the culture of personal connection runs much deeper than in western partnerships. We first must have a “good feeling” about an organization, their presidents or founders and administrative staff before we will even consider moving forward. This means regular meetings and conversations to see if these small NGO’s are aligned with the Tribe and then we move forward ensuring transparency and ethics are being maintained so that we can build a trustworthy partnership. The founders of Rays and their families have now become our families. We know our project funds are being properly allocated and we love spending time there to experience first hand what’s made possible through our generous contributors around the world. 

3) I think it’s beautiful that the artisans you work with are oftentimes giving back to their very own communities. That must be special to see. How do you find artisans to work with and is their work volunteer based seeing as 100% of the funds are donated to your projects? 

100% of our donations are donated to our projects. As we are a nonprofit company, we contribute our jewelry sale profits (after expenses) to our projects, which works out to be between 10-40% of each purchase. We pay our artisans 3x minimum wage in India, we connect with small family run producers to ensure that work ethics are met to our standard.  We only move toward partnerships once a mutually agreeable and trustworthy relationship has begun. Empowering local artisans and bringing economic growth into the communities we work to support is how we operate a full circle business model. The artisans know that their work is contributing to children who are in need in their communities. There is a lot of corruption in India, and we work hard to ensure we’re part of the solution, not contributing to the problems. 

4) What materials are you using for your jewelry Tand how do you choose each one? 

We use Indian 925 Sterling Silver, 18 Carat Gold Plating, Semi-precious stones and brass detailing. We use silver because it is an affordable price point and a high quality, hypoallergenic metal. We source our gems from a gem wholesaler who’s family has been working in the industry for more than 40 years. 

5) In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is Tribe of Lambs doing to combat this?

Overconsumption & waste due to fast fashion, advertising & greed in our society. The mass impact on the environment and garment workers overseas are becoming more common knowledge however, we have a long way to go in making simple lifestyle choices which will help make long lasting change. 

a) What about ethically?

Tribe of Lambs is working towards a consumer industry, which focuses on quality over quantity. We want our customers to both understand our strengths and our areas for growth in the production of our products and also know that their purchase is contributing to a global issue.  We encourage our customers to look for quality when making a purchase so it is long lasting.  

6) What’s the best way you ensure your workers are treated well?

We have close working relationships with all our producers who disclose the payments, agreements and schedules of the workers they employ. All our producers sign Tribe of Lambs supplier standards documents. As we contract our workers, we do not have total control over these issues however, it is in our 5 year plan to develop our own jewelry cooperative where we can shift this. 

7) What are some initiatives you’re working on in Canada, UK and India to spread awareness?

Our whole business is our awareness initiative. Our mission is to raise funds and awareness for HIV+ children through the sale of our jewelry. Our jewelry acts as a platform to create meaningful conversations about HIV and other global issues and how we can come together to inspire change. 

8) What’s something different (or special) about Tribe of Lambs from other companies you’ve worked at in the past?

Since founding Tribe of Lambs I’ve really been focused on showing consumers that ethical & sustainable can also mean quality & style. 5 years ago when I was working in the fashion industry, ethical had a “hippie/granola” vibe to it and people weren’t responsive. Now it’s totally possible to support smaller brands with bigger missions. Tribe is different that we are supporting such a small marginalized group of HIV+ children while maintaining a quality product, at a competitive price. It IS possible to use business for change if you strategize correctly. People will always want to shop, and they want a platform to give to…that is what we offer.

9) For someone new to the sustainable world, what are some key small steps they can look out for when shopping to ensure they’re investing in a good company?

Research! Read about a companies values and standards before you give them your money. If the information isn’t available online, send them an email. I appreciate getting emails requesting more information about what we do and how we do it. 

Getting to Know Groceries Apparel

After being introduced to Groceries Apparel by a fellow model, I was immediately drawn to their simple, stylish staples that were clearly made well with the environment in mind.

I had been thinking about creating my own basic white tees at the time and while modeling was taking over much of my time, I found it difficult to balance both worlds. I created a sample tee, here in New York and after I wasn't completely content with the first mock-up, I reached out to Groceries to see if I could do an ODC edit on a tee they were already producing perfectly. I was exceptionally impressed by their openness to work with a smaller company like myself. They were flexible with their minimums and completely open about where they sourced their fabrics, where everything was made and everything in between! They're a dream to work with, and after a recent visit to L.A. I was even more impressed with how open they were on a tour of their factory.

Robert Lohman, founder of the Groceries took the time to answer some in-depth questions so you can get to know a bit more about where our Sustainable Is Sexy tees come from! Check out his answers below!

1) Tell me a bit about how Groceries Apparel came about? Where did everyone in the company come from and how did you all transition into the sustainable/ethical world?

Groceries started on the Venice boardwalk with American Apparel organic blanks dyed with grass, orange juice, rust, soil, tomatoes, blood, and milk, and basically anything in my backyard.  I was set on creating a non-toxic t-shirt.  When I was trying to expand, it dawned on me that there were no volume blank providers that were 100% committed to chemical-free and made in USA.  I had randomly met Dov Charney at a fabric store called Ragfinders and he ended up inviting me to take a tour of his American Apparel factory.  Dov showed me how to sew in teams and digitize patterns.  The next day I rented three Kansai Special’s and a Tukatech license.  I’m not really a fashion guy, I’m an environmentalist that loves manufacturing.

2) What is your take on organic, recycled and regular cotton? Is there one the company is partial to?

From day one we’ve sourced only organic or recycled ingredients.  I’m not a fan at all of regular cotton, one of the reasons we exist is to shift demand away from it.  The future is in hemp, post-consumer recycled textiles, and bio-based textiles, these are some of the only fabrics that fit into a larger circular economy.  Lenzing has been working on some really soft closed-loop textiles made from recycled eucalyptus fiber, like Refibra.  We have some new spandex blends made from recycled ocean fishnets.  There are a lot of textile innovations on the horizon made from food waste, orange peels, fish skins, coffee, etc.  We also dye garments with flowers, roots, bark, leaves, and onion skins.

3) All of your clothing is made in America, which is awesome!! While I don’t think made outside the U.S. has to necessarily mean it’s a bad thing, why did you guys choose to stay local?

Locally-made is central to our business model.  Being local means being closer to our garments as they are made, which helps us command the fit and quality.  It also allows us to cut out middle men, trim redundancy, and lower the carbon footprint impact and costs.  Being local enables us to respond and fulfill orders faster, which helps our boutique partners.  Stores are able to hold their budget and analyze sales trends later into the season before purchasing.  Brands that stay local don’t need to speculate their production orders, they can cut-to-order and limit waste.  There are a ton of advantages to manufacturing local, made in China is great if you sell to China.

4) Tell me a bit about the factory you use and how you chose it. What’s the best way you guys ensure workers are treated well?

We are the factory.  We operate our own factory to ensure our standards and values are fully executed, especially when it comes to treating our employees well.  We have 80 yards of cutting space and 43 sewing machines, producing 40,000 units per month on average. 

5) What’s something difficult Groceries has been able to overcome in terms of becoming more sustainable?

Early on we were passing on a lot of sales opportunities due to our higher price point and our unwillingness to manufacture non-organic garments.  Groceries’ first business model relied on economies of scale in order to compete, which was hard to execute out of my garage.  It was kind of a paradox in the fact that we needed more orders to feed our factory, but we were also turning down orders because we were unwilling to make a cheaper non-organic option.  I was unwilling to compromise my values in order to stay in business, which sounds great but was actually a huge problem for the company.  My business model stated we had to generate about 4 million dollars a year in order to feed our factory and become profitable.  Groceries’ was more of a young, big business than a small business.  It took me a while to convince banks and investors that my business model wasn’t insane.

6) In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is GROCERIES doing to combat this?

The industry is the 2nd most toxic in the world behind oil, so I would say the toxicity.  We’ve purchased 3 million yards of organic and recycled textiles to help push the demand for chemical-free and gmo-free.  We’re also moving toward non-toxic, vegetable-based dyes. 

a)What about ethically? 

We pay well above minimum wage to our employees and offer a safe and happy workplace.

7) What are the next steps for Groceries? How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five to ten years?

I see non-toxic and ethically-made clothing becoming the standard for our industry.  Every step we take will be working towards this.