Getting to Know Kahindo

When a former high school friend of mine reached out to introduce me to a brand she works with, I jumped at the opportunity to get to know Kahindo, founder of her namesake brand, Kahindo. With beautiful bold prints inspired by her upbringing in Africa , Kahindo strives to bring an ethical source of income to the women in the communities who help make her clothes. It was an absolute pleasure to get to know the founder and her journey into conception of this successful brand. We talk about the importance of ethical fashion, as well as how she believes the sustainable movement (and the fashion industry as a whole) can be more inclusive. Check out our interview below!

All of our ODC community can get 20% off the SS20 collection by plugging in the code: ODC20OFF

1) Tell us a bit about your journey in the making of your brand, Kahindo. 

I started my brand in 2009 in Chicago as a way to express my Congolese heritage and African upbringing. I wanted to create pieces that I could easily wear to work and that could transition to night and featured traditional African prints. I was accepted into the Chicago Fashion Incubator at Macy’s on State Street where I learned the business side of fashion. In 2016 I rebranded with a name change from Modahnik to Kahindo and moved to New York. As a luxury sustainable womenswear fashion brand that is ethically sourced and produced in Africa using fair trade practices, our mission is to empower women in marginalized communities by closing the gender gap, paying fair living wages and creating sustainable jobs. We are now carried at Rent the Runway and Industrie Africa.

2) Tell us a bit about your heritage and how that influences your beautiful designs.

I was born in Uganda to Congolese parents, schooled in Kenya and lived in Ethiopia and Niger before moving to the States to attend College. My Pan-African upbringing has given me a love and appreciation of different African cultures that I constantly pull inspiration from. I am especially proud of my Congolese heritage which I often reference in my designs. We have such a rich culture from music, to dance, to the green landscape of my hometown of Goma to fashion. Les Sapeurs is a movement that beautifully encompasses this. I grew up going to buy African print in the market in Goma and then to the local tailor who would make a custom fit outfit for me for a special occasion, and I have always wanted to share this experience with the world.

3) What is the production process like from when you think of what to make to how it is finally manufactured? 

Everything always starts with color, that is the essence of KAHINDO. I look at trend reports to get an idea of what colors will be in the next season. The next step is coming up with the print. We started developing prints in house, which is very exciting, as they are always unique to the brand. We love to collaborate with different artists to interpret their work into textiles. Once the fabric is selected we come up with the styles which always include our staples and a couple of new looks that our customer craves. Samples are made to perfect the fit, then manufacturing begins. For Spring Summer 2020, we sourced hand dyed fabric that was made in Kenya, and worked with female artisans in DR Congo who sewed the garments to perfection.

4) What does ‘sustainability’ mean to you and your brand and how do you strive for environmental and ethical justice within the fashion industry?

We address 3 of the United Nations Sustainable development goals, which are Gender Equity, Fair Trade and Poverty Eradication. This means focusing on the human factor. That is, we want to ensure fashion is ethical, that workers are treated fairly, that they get paid a fair living wage and work in safe working conditions. We believe that providing sustainable jobs is the key to ending poverty and that when you empower a woman, you empower a whole community. We want to make a well-made product in Africa that has a social impact. Consumers care how and where their clothes are made and we hope to deliver on that.

5) I love your latest collection, dropped this past January. Such beautiful colors! Tell us about your RefuSHE campaign and how that came about. 

I have been involved with RefuShe since 2014 when I participated in their “Project Runway” inspired fashion challenge, and won it that year. Their mission of empowering refugee girls is something that is close to my heart. I always wanted to be involved more, so when the opportunity came to collaborate with the women who work in the Artisan Collective, I had to jump on it. They hand dyed the fabric that was used in my SS20 collection, while earning some income which gives them financial freedom.

6) What was your experience on Project Runway like and what were some of the things you learned that stuck with you to this day?

Being selected to participate in Project Runway Season 12 was a dream come true, especially because I was picked from hundreds of designers.  The show gave me a huge opportunity to showcase my talent to millions of viewers across the U.S. I am proud that I was able to share my culture and heritage with such a large audience.

7) What message do you have for your followers and community about your own experiences as a Black-owned business and how you have remained so persistent in an industry that has been (and still can be) resistant to equality and change from within.  

The fashion industry has a lack of diversity, not only with models, but designers and press. Because of this I have had to work 10 times as hard as another designer to get the press coverage I deserve, or to get carried by retailers. I have also been passed over for so many opportunities because of the color of my skin. This has definitely slowed the growth of my brand, in addition to lack of access to capital and a network. However, I have been resilient and tenacious and truly believe that my brand is at the cusp of success.

8) How do you feel we can best make sustainability more inclusive?  

I feel large and small retailers need to start carrying more sustainable brands and more brands that are designed by black women. The 15% pledge is a great movement that is challenging retailers to dedicate 15% of their shelf space to black founded companies, which is a great start.

9) What goals do you have, current or in the future, in achieving more sustainable practices as a business? 

We started with a focus on ethical production, which sometimes is overlooked when you talk about sustainability, but is just as important if not more, because in effect it is how we treat garment workers. In the future we will source more sustainable fabrics such as organic cotton, hemp and linen and incorporate recycled materials in our packaging.

10) What has been one of your biggest achievements to date? 

Being able to provide sustainable job opportunities to female artisans in my home town of Goma, DRC is one of my biggest achievements. I was able to give over 150 days of work to the women, because of Rent the Runway, where KAHINDO is currently stocked at. 

Follow Kahindo along:

Web, Instagram

All You Need to Know About Proclaim!

I recently came across Proclaim; a women’s line of intimates that promotes inclusivity, longevity and comfort. As something that we all need to wear, I appreciated their mindfulness with encompassing size, style, and color. From why they choose to produce locally in L.A. to some of their favorite eco-friendly materials they incorporate in production design, check out our latest interview with Shobha Philips, founder of Proclaim… Enjoy!

1) Tell us about the journey from conception to fruition for Proclaim.

I started Proclaim because I was tired of not being able to find a nude bra that matched my brown skin as an Indian woman.  For years, the fashion industry has chosen to ignore me and millions of women that don’t have the skin color that is ubiquitously known as nude.  It was something I was aware of for as long as I can remember. I knew I wanted to be a part of the movement to revolutionize nude, but if I was going to do this, I wanted to do it right.  Beyond inclusivity, there are so many issues in the fashion industry that are long overdue for change, specifically it’s negative effects on people and the environment.  Proclaim is ethically made, inclusively designed intimates for women of all shapes, sizes and skin tones.  Our pieces are made from eco-friendly fabrics and made locally here in Los Angeles.

2) We love that Proclaim is inclusive in size, and color. How did this become a part of the business model?  

As someone who never felt they were included in the beauty narrative in fashion, being inclusive was particularly important to me from day one.  Representation of women of all shapes, sizes and skin tones has been lacking, especially in intimates. All our pieces are created in inclusive nude tones and we have been working on expanding our size options with each collection.  Our latest collection is available in sizes S-3X.

3) What are the main differences between post-consumer recycled bottles and Tencel fabrics and how does Proclaim incorporate them both into the designs?

All our fabrics are selected with environmental impact in mind.  Recycled polyester is made from BPA-free recycled plastic bottles.  We love recycled polyester because is it reduces reliance on virgin petroleum as a raw material and diverts plastic from landfills and oceans.  Tencel, on the other hand is made from eucalyptus bark and made in a nearly closed loop process where 99% of the solvent is recovered, purified and reused.   I love exploring new eco-friendly fabrics and hope to continue to work with different fibers as we grow.

4) What criteria does Proclaim company have for choosing factories to work with?

As an LA based brand, we work with factories that are based in LA to reduce our carbon footprint and contribute to the economy where we live.  The factories pay fair wages in the form of salaries instead of per/piece which is a practice that can lead to underpayment of workers and a focus on quantity rather than quality.    All our manufacturing partners meet state, local and federal workplace requirements for a safe workplace as well.

5) What can we do as consumers to prolong the life of our undergarments and how often should we purchasing new bras and underwear? 

Handwashing instead of machine washing will lead to a longer life for any garment, but especially your delicate intimates. I know it’s not always convenient, but it makes a big difference. I also recommend hang drying to prolong the life instead of throwing them in the dryer.  As far as when to purchase new intimates, it depends on how often you are wearing your bra or underwear.  But in general, I try to pay attention to the comfort and fit of the bra.  Your bra should be supportive and comfortable.  If there is significant decline from wearing and washing over time, it might be time to replace.

6) Where should our used garments go once we’re finished with them?

I like to swap or give clothes to friends to ensure a longer life cycle for the garment.  Donating clothes is another option to places like Goodwill or a homeless shelter.  Many cities also have textile recycling programs that turn unusable garments into insulation and other industrial uses.

7) In your opinion, what is the most unsustainable part of the fashion industry? What is Proclaim doing to combat this? 

The sheer volume of garments being produced is, in my opinion, the most unsustainable part of fashion.  Churning out cheaply made clothes that are made to wear one or two times is simply not sustainable for the planet. Proclaim produces thoughtfully designed pieces in small batch production that is made for many wears in timeless, minimalist styles.

8) How has the company’s journey been through these difficult times of COVID-19? What can we, your community do to help?

We turned to making masks a few weeks ago in an effort to allow our production partners to keep working in a newly configured safe working environment and to donate masks to the Downtown Women’s Center in LA through our buy-one-donate-one program.

9. How do you think the fashion industry will change after this pandemic and what are you trying to do to cope with these changes?

I hope companies will use this time to rethink their business models and invest in a future that algins with the fragile ecosystem we live in.

10) What are the next steps for Proclaim?  How do you see yourselves evolving in the next five years?     

There are so many wardrobe staples that women need in inclusive nude tones and inclusive sizes. I’d like to continue to create these pieces within the sustainable business model we’ve built over the last 3 years.

8 Sustainable Looks That Make Fashion Proud

In the latest issue of Harpers Bazaar, they cover eight sustainable looks from brands to trust who are transparent about the materials they use and the manufacturing processes. This is part of a new series for Harpers, the Sustainable Style, a partnership with the New Standard Institute, where they will be publishing stories devoted to the fashion and beauty industry's effects on the environment.

A new wave of change is coming in the fashion industry, a trend of sustainability and conscious fashion that will be here to stay. I’m so thankful to be able to model for companies and publications like this that support the necessary change. Thanks to the whole team who was involved in this very special project.

Check out the rest of the story here, and see some of the images below!

Brands featured:

Stella McCartney
Amur
Voz
Esse
Olivia Kane
Maggie Marilyn
Brother Vellies
Gabriela Hearst
Mara Hoffman

Your Off-Duty Holiday Guide for the On Duty Citizen

Recently on ‘What to Wear’, we featured some of our favorite holiday looks from staying warm in the wintertime to holiday gift guides and sequined dresses for New Year’s Eve. While that section of the site serves the purpose of quick inspiration, it’s also our intention to provide a little background information on all the brands we choose to feature so you can dive deep and find new companies to support with an ethos that resonates best with you.

For the holiday parties…

Reformation

RefScale tracks transparency of CO2, water, and waste savings
Factory ensures eco-friendly practices
Reusable totes, recycled hangers, and recycled clothing program
Carbon offsets available for purchase on site

Fame and Partners

Designed with (almost) zero-waste sustainable manufacturing platform
Craft everything to order; eliminates need for excess stock (and air conditioned, CO2-draining warehouses where stored)

Mother of Pearl

Launched “no frills”- first fully sustainable line of core classics
Tries to use less water and source materials to the seed
Replant trees with each tree cut down used to make product
Traceability through entire supply chain
Summer 2020 line, 5% of their materials were synthetics-working to phase out entirely

Matt and Nat

Transparent company working towards becoming better in their production
Works with vegan leather and recycled materials
One of their factories is certified under SA8000 Standard meaning all workers are paid well in a safe work environment

Beachy vacations…

Fisch

Handmade from Italian ECONYL® fabrics
ECONYL® is 100% regenerated nylon fiber crafted from abandoned fishing nets and other nylon waste found in the ocean
Fabric mill is two hours from their factory; minimizes carbon dioxide waste from excessive shipping
Every year FISCH donates 10% of global profits to the Healthy Seas initiative

Hereu

Engages with local artisans to preserve mediterranean craft in Spain
Uses local materials for production
Hereu works with a local factory in Barcelona and artisans in Majorca to produce all of its Spanish leather and woven straw bags

Vitamin A

Uses sustainable fabrics like EcoLux superfine jersey made from recycled nylon fiber
Choose factories that conserve water and energy use
Made in USA

Faithfull the Brand

Designed, sourced, produced in Bali
Hand-dying, hand-printing
Work with local factories, vendors and artisans in Bali and scaled factory growth over the past decade
Faithfull team visits factory weekly to ensure sustainable/ethical standards

Stay cozy this winter..

Ninety Percent

90% of distributed profits shared with charities and those who make collections
Consumers choose which charitable cause money goes to
Garments made in Bangladesh and Turkey in ethical factories
Use organic cotton and Tencel (working to find more sustainable solutions and fabrics)

AG Jeans

Donates to Charity: Water
Made in own vertically integrated facilities; ensures quality control
Production facilities utilize Ozone Technology; cuts water consumption by 50%
Also minimizes use of chemicals and energy
Many (not all) fabrics eco-friendly
Excess scraps collected for recycling on weekly basis and repurposed as insulation
Conducts announced/unannounced audits of suppliers’ facilities

Boy Smells Candle

Developed, mixed at the founder’s home in LA
Fragrance and natural oils
All-natural coconut oil and beeswax
Hand-poured in reusable glass vessel

Everlane

$5 of every Human collection purchase goes to ACLU
Hands-on relationships with factories
Transparent about costs with customers
Uses some natural fibers like recycled cotton

Patagonia

Promotes fair labor practices and safe working conditions
Protection and preservation of the environment
Takes responsibility for entire lifecycle of products
Works with outside auditor and an in-house corporate responsibility specialist to establish working conditions
1% of sales to grass-root activists
Goal to be carbon neutral across entire business including supply chain by 2025
As of 2018, 100% renewable electricity in retail stores in USA
Current practices/goals; measure impact, reduce impact, convert to renewable energy, capture carbon

Gift giving

Ilia Beauty

All cream lip products come in recycled packaging
Certified organic bio-active ingredients
Ethos: not all natural ingredients good for skin, not ever synthetic ingredients bad for skin, finds balance in using both
Ensures everything is safe for skin

Veja

Fair trade philosophy
Avoids retail markups by doing less advertising
Careful consideration of available materials

Soko

Uses technology to empower artisans
Working with artisans and connects them with international market
They're after an ethical fast fashion world
Their mobile-enabled virtual factory operates at a fraction of the cost of traditional production; gives more earnings to artisans

Stella McCartney x Parley

Stella McCartney
No leather or fur
First and only vegetarian luxury line
Transparent and always striving to be more sustainable

Parley
Yarn used from recycled and reclaimed ocean waste
Parley hosts talks to share state of the oceans and to get support for a related initiative or project
Work with companies on collaborative projects to better our oceans
Currently they have collaborations with American Express, Soma, Adidas, and Stella McCartney..

New Year’s Eve..

Rachel Comey

Uses fur/leather from animals that have died from natural causes
Conscious sourcing from tanneries in Peru
Small-scale batches

Fame and Partners

Designed with (almost) zero-waste sustainable manufacturing platform
Craft everything to order; eliminates need for excess stock (and air conditioned, CO2-draining warehouses where stored)

Reformation

RefScale tracks transparency of CO2, water, and waste savings
Factory ensures eco-friendly practices
Reusable totes, recycled hangers, and recycled clothing program
Working to become 100% sustainable (some materials still outsourced)
Offsets available for purchase on site, partner with Brazilian Rosewood Amazon Conservation Project and Bonneville Environmental Foundation (BEF) Water Restoration Program

Brother Vellies

Creates and sustains artisanal jobs within Africa
Transparent about who makes shoes and factories they're made in
Most shoes made with Kudu leather; animal byproduct from government mandated culling due to overpopulation
Other materials sourced from local farmers in Kenya and South Africa and are entirely byproducts from edible food industry
Many pieces are vegetable-dyed
Schedule large batch cargo shipments to reduce carbon footprint

Affordable Finds

Boyish Jeans

Uses 1/3 of water typically needed to make denim
Recycled materials for hangtags, hardware, labels and polybags
Ensure suppliers meet standards for social responsibility
Yarn, fabric and manufacturing facility within thirty miles of each other- less C02 footprint
Recycle all cutting waste

Threads 4 Thought

Uses sustainable materials like Organic Cotton, Recycled Polyester, and Lenzing Modal
Factories hold high certifications of ethical practices
Partners with International Rescue Committee

Everlane

$5 of every Human collection purchase goes to ACLU
Hands-on relationships with factories
Transparent about costs with customers
Uses some natural fibers like recycled cotton

Patagonia

Promotes fair labor practices and safe working conditions
Protection and preservation of the environment
Takes responsibility for entire lifecycle of products
Works with outside auditor and an in-house corporate responsibility specialist to establish working conditions
1% of sales to grass-root activists
Goal to be carbon neutral across entire business including supply chain by 2025
As of 2018, 100% renewable electricity in retail stores in USA
Current practices/goals; measure impact, reduce impact, convert to renewable energy, capture carbon

Your Sustainable Guide to Fashion Week- s/s 2018

Living in a big fashion capital like New York, it can often be tough to stick to sustainable habits. However, once we're properly informed, avoiding fast-fashion shops like Zara and Forever21 can become quite easy. Other habits are harder to form, especially as fashion week approaches. We see celebrities and models dressed in gorgeous new outfits every day. We’re bombarded with the new "must have" trends that models wear as they strut down the runway, some available for purchase before the show even finishes... and we’re invited to parties and networking events where food is left untouched and plastic straws and cups are littered about, most of which will not be recycled. It’s an exciting time when the city comes alive and everyone shows off their best-looking selves but why is it we forget what truly matters, our duty as human beings to be more environmentally conscious? Shouldn’t our utmost priority be to make sustainable sexy? Here’s how!

Going to an event? Not sure what to wear? Try some of these options below. 

Rent the Runway

Rent the Runway is a company that lets you borrow dresses and evening wear for those special events, then return it for free as soon as you’re done! You can order in multiple sizes so you can ensure you get the right fit and don’t have to worry about dry-cleaning post wear, they’ll do all that for you!

When you rent a dress, you’re saving all the natural resources that go into manufacturing a new piece of clothing. The average woman throws away around 82 pounds of clothing per year. Renting helps reduce this significantly. [1]

We often wear that statement dress only once or twice, so why not get something fab (they have 250,000 designer pieces to choose from!), wear it once and then return it? It’s about shifting perspectives of the consumer and letting your friends and peers know it’s okay to rent something that’s already been worn and it is so much more environmentally friendly. 

Have a clothing swap

I’ve written about it before on a previous blog post but I can’t stress enough how amazing a clothing swap party is! You can do it with as little or as many people as you want, and the whole thing can be done without spending a dime. Have some extra clothes laying around that don’t get worn? Bring them (or host) a clothing swap party where everyone brings a few garments and trade away! It’s the perfect way to revamp your wardrobe and get some awesome unique pieces that your friends no longer wear. The best way to ‘shop’ sustainably, and reduce waste is to reuse! [2]

Borrow from a friend

Sometimes, the easiest and most cost effective way to complete a look is to borrow from a friend. Rather than my friend buying a fancy clutch she’d only end up using once for an upcoming wedding, I let her borrow one from me. Now I know in the future I can count on her to lend me an accessory or even a dress if I need it. We all have way too many things in our closet so why not share and save a little money for some more drinks with your girls at the bar?;)

Second-hand shopping

Here in New York, we’re lucky enough to have some truly amazing second-hand shops. The stuff is already made and reusing that is, without a doubt, the most sustainable option out there, even more so than making new clothes out of sustainable materials. You can often find some one-of-a-kind pieces that will make your outfit so much cooler than whatever Zara outfit every other person is wearing. Then, when you get stopped by a street-style photographer asking where you got your blazer, you can be that cool, off-trend person who says they got it from the second-hand store;) Often, used items are less expensive as well. Beacon’s Closet, Buffalo Exchange, and even your local Goodwill are excellent options. 

Reduce the Plastic

With a plethora of parties coming up and with that, a decent amount of drinking, why not make a pledge to yourself to #stopsucking? The Lonely Whale foundation seeks to educate people about the oceans and our impact on them. From overfishing, plastic pollution and acidification, our oceans need us to live smarter and become more aware of our actions. In the U.S. alone we use 500 million plastic straws EVERY DAY, many of which end up in the ocean. Lonely Whale has set out to combat this pollution by not using any plastic straws and encouraging everyone to join them. Paper, metal, glass and bamboo are all MUCH more sustainable options. Take the pledge to #stopsucking on single-use plastic straws and challenge your friends! Going out to a fashion week after party? Order that drink sans straw. Or, if you prefer your drinks with straws bring one with you! Read more about strawless oceans here

Your Straw offers incredible bamboo straws as an alternative. They’re the perfect size for anything from coffees to smoothies and come with a tiny brush so you can keep them clean. Purchase your own Your Straw here.

In addition to straws, try and carry a tote bag with you everywhere you go. That way, if you get some cool gift bags from shows or have to do a quick grocery shop on the way home, you can skip the plastic bag! I also always try and carry a fork and spoon with me. It’s the easiest way to reduce the single-use plastic options and is great to have on hand as I run from casting to casting all over the city.  

Take Public Transportation

New York City Fashion Week is spread out with a conflicting schedule that makes attending a few shows each day near impossible. Traffic is always a mess and people are always running late. Why not take mass transit to avoid the headache of being stuck in traffic knowing you’re not doing the environment any good? “A bus with as few as seven passengers is more fuel-efficient than the average single-occupant auto used for commuting.” [3] Sometimes the high heels are too high to navigate the subway steps and grates, so if you plan on using Uber or a taxi as your main resource try and pool with as many friends as possible. 

Living sustainably is without a doubt more difficult. But taking positive action is not only beneficial but is necessary. If we stick to our current ways by 2050 there will be more plastic in the oceans than fish. Our actions have a direct impact on our earth and we have the resources and knowledge to reduce this impact and live cleaner. Fashion is the second dirtiest industry after oil. We can make a significant impact just by shifting our consumption habits... even in small ways. So, as you get ready for fashion week try a couple of these recommendations and share some with your friends. Rather than buying the newest, latest thing, why don’t we all try and make sustainable trendy? Nothing is sexier than a cleaner, greener environment.   

Ode to a White Tee

Dearest Tee,

You're the first thing I put on when I wake up in the morning and you're the last thing I cuddle up to as I snuggle up in bed to you for warmth and comfort. When I found you, I couldn't believe you were the one, I had been searching my entire life for something that fit so perfectly into my life and never knew you'd be the one. You're into sustainability, a huge passion of mine and you know how to compliment me when I need it the most. You blend in when necessary and stand out amongst others when I'm trying to make a statement. You're the perfect size, the perfect weight, the perfect softness and the perfect feel. Thank you for being you and for helping me be me. I can count on you any day to make any outfit and know you'll always be there if I'm struggling deciding what to wear.  I love you so dearly.

Love always,

Britt

Everyone needs that perfect white tee...

Fashion Week Street Style Part Three

Here's the last post of our three part series on how to achieve the model street style look sustainably. We teamed up with Xin Wang, a NYC street style photographer to capture our favorite fashion week looks and then found sustainable versions of each. Enjoy!
 

GET THE LOOK, SUSTAINABLY! 

 

SHOP THE LOOK, SUSTAINABLY!

 

GET THE LOOK, SUSTAINABLY!